On the Grapevine

Our grape profiles:

Riesling

Grape profile: no.1, Riesling

"Many wine writers and journalists, including myself, consider Riesling to be one of the greatest white grape varieties in the world and no-one produces Rieslings quite like Germany."

Jilly Goolden, November 2002

Riesling is the finest and best known of Germany's white grape varieties. Its small grapes ripen late in the year, usually in October or November. This long, slow ripening period allows it to develop a deeper aroma and a harmonious balance. Wines made from Riesling grapes tend to be fragrant and lively with fine-fruity bouquets, reminiscent of apples and peaches. They have a pronounced racy acidity, piquant taste and enormous potential for ageing. So join the 'Anything but Chardonnay' movement, drink Riesling!

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Grape profile: No.2, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

In Germany, the Spätburgunder is to red wine what the Riesling is to white wine: the cream of the crop. Sensitive to climate and soil, it needs warmth, not intense heat, to thrive and does well in chalky soils. As the name implies, it ripens late (spät) and it was brought to Germany from Burgundy, where it has probably been cultivated since at least the 4th century (first documented, however, in the 14th century). Called Pinot Noir in France, this grape produces elegant, velvety, mouth-filling wines with a distinctive fruity bouquet reminiscent of bitter almonds or blackberries. The traditional style of German Spätburgunder is lighter in color, body and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates. Many contemporary winemakers are producing wines that are international in style, i.e. fuller-bodied, deep red wines with higher tannin levels. Often the wines take on more depth and complexity (and a light vanilla tone) if they are aged in small (225 litre) oak casks. Since 1997 plantings have increased by almost 40% and there are now in excess of 10,600 hectares of Spätburgunder vines, making it the most important red wine grape variety in Germany. Just over 10% of Germany's vineyard area is devoted to Spätburgunder, with over half the plantings in Baden, primarily in the Ortenau and Kaiserstuhl districts.

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Grape profile: Silvaner

Silvaner is an old variety that once was the most important grape in Germany. Today, it accounts for some 7% of the country's plantings. A reasonably abundant producer, it likes average exposure to the sunshine and needs moist soil. It ripens about two weeks earlier than Riesling. Silvaner makes a rather full-bodied, neutral wine with a mild acidity, and is generally best enjoyed while young. A traditional variety in Franken, Rheinhessen and Saale-Unstrut, there are also extensive plantings in the Pfalz and an enclave in the Kaiserstuhl district of Baden.

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