Jade Koch writes about her passion for German wine

When I reflect on my very first experiences with German wine I have to admit to a level of confusion – perhaps in line with that of many others – “will it be dry”, “will it be sweet”, “how will I know? “

I persevered. I was open to discovering new wines and it was a close friend who knew my tastes well that first led me to taste a classic German Riesling and I trusted his judgement. It took me only a little time to appreciate the bone dry minerality that I now know to be so typical of German Riesling. I think this is true of many consumers – certainly those I meet in the restaurant who when recommended a Riesling are nervous that the wine might be cloyingly sweet – by encouraging them to focus on the wonderful racy acidity the thoughts of seventies sweet are swiftly eradicated.

At Tate Britain we sell a great deal of Riesling by the glass which has turned around our sales and allowed us to encourage trial amongst diners who’d never think to order a bottle of German wine. Tesch’s Riesling Unplugged has been our most recent success which, following our front of house team tasting and food matching discussion became one of the most purchased wines by the glass to accompany dishes from our menu including Steamed Colchester cockles with shaved new seasons garlic and Boiled Gammon with braised red cabbage and pease pudding. Each time we suggested the wine to a diner we also offered a free taste which converted an impressive nine out of ten people to purchase!

Confidence, passion and education are the key to sell any wine that, for whatever reason, struggles to sell itself and is never truer than with Germany. Yet armed with a short anecdote about a wine, winemaker or region and a guided taste there’s no doubt that even the most reluctant drinker will pick up on your genuine enthusiasm and welcome the introduction to a wealth of wines they’ve previously excluded from their repertoire.

There’s a myriad of styles of German wine and any list needs to be logically structured to facilitate the diners’ journey of choice and subsequent selection. Detailing how the list is structured, the wines are organised and most importantly how to find the right match for the occasion / dish is crucial to communicate.

Our list has been simplified to be ordered by sweetness starting with the driest Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2005 from Leitz followed by Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett 2005 from Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt , Wehlener Sonnenuhr Rieslling Spätlese 1996 and Wehlener Sonnenuhr Rieslling Auslese 1996 from Joh Jos Prüm and culminating the current German selection with Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Eiswein 1999 from Carl von Schubert.

Wine in the UK is expensive yet Germany still offers some fantastic aged wines at accessible prices even in London’s pricey on trade. Again the sommeliers role is to lead the interested consumer to these finds – my top recommendation from our current list is J.J. Prum Auslese 1996 at £36 – a steal in anyone’s books once tasted but it doesn’t jump off the list!

Pair it with blue cheese, a succulent piece of pork with chillies and fennel or an apple crumble drizzled with Jersey cream. Well sourced seasonal ingredients simply prepared are a god-send for the Sommelier – be it spiced, creamy, acidic, poached or roasted Riesling can be a sublime match where other wines would falter as it is truly the most versatile and food friendly noble grape and Germany is its home.

 
Wow, I love German Rieslings.
When I was served a German Riesling for the first time I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’m glad I gave it a try, because it was a great wine. I definitely need to go for Tate Britain to taste their German wines.
Tina from London at Apr 17, 04:17 PM

 

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